What is the Canavese? A short guide for first-time visitors
Between Turin and the Aosta Valley lies a land of castles, glacial lakes, vineyards and visionary industry. Here’s where to start.
When I tell international friends that I live in the Canavese, the answer is almost always the same: “Where?” And every time I smile, because it means I get to tell them about one of the best-kept secrets in northern Italy.
Where it is
The Canavese is the area of Piedmont between Turin and the Aosta Valley, crossed by the Dora Baltea river — the “Dora” in Miradora. To the north rise the Alps and the valleys of the Gran Paradiso; to the south the land opens into a gentle plain. In between lies a huge amphitheatre of hills left behind by an ancient glacier.
It is just 40 minutes from Turin and about an hour and a half from Milan, yet it feels like another world: quieter, greener, more authentic.
What makes it special
- Castles everywhere. More than eighty towers, manors and castles — from Masino, looked after by the FAI, to the royal residence of Agliè.
- Glacial lakes. Viverone, Candia and the Five Lakes of Ivrea are perfect for walks, picnics and slow afternoons.
- Erbaluce wine. The local white grape gives fresh still wines, fine sparkling wines and a precious passito.
- The legacy of Olivetti. Ivrea, the “industrial city of the 20th century”, is a UNESCO World Heritage site and a unique story of innovation, design and social responsibility.
- Traditions. The Historic Carnival of Ivrea with its Battle of the Oranges is one of the most extraordinary festivals in Italy.
When to come
Spring and autumn are my favourite seasons: mild temperatures, blossoming or golden vineyards and the grape harvest in September. Summer is perfect for the lakes, while February belongs to the Carnival.
How to get around
A car gives you the most freedom, but you don’t need one: I can organise transfers from Turin and move you between experiences so you can simply enjoy the day.
The Canavese doesn’t shout. It reveals itself slowly — and that’s exactly why people fall in love with it.
If you’d like help planning your first visit, write to me: I’ll be happy to suggest the right experiences for you.